'Save the Old' aims to bring awareness and appreciation to Lodi's historic vineyards
LODI – The saying “out with the old and in with the new” has its place when cleaning out a closet.
But in Lodi, the old are worth keeping.
Lodi boasts California’s highest concentration of own-rooted, old-vine vineyards – an undisputed source of pride in the region’s wine community. (Note: Vines 50 years and older generally are considered “old,” though there is no legal definition for the term).
Easy to spot with their bushy, gnarly appearance, old vines make delicious wines but are low-yielding, expensive to grow and fetch scant returns per ton, especially zinfandel, the primary old-vine variety planted in Lodi. That rough reality helps explain why some growers have replaced their old vines with other wine grape varieties or crops that are less costly and generate higher revenue. Lodi’s urban development also has taken a toll.
The amount of old-vine acreage pulled recently is difficult to quantify, but enough to draw some concern. Thus a campaign is afoot to raise awareness about Lodi’s prized senior citizens in the hope they don’t disappear. The Lodi Winegrape Commission has launched “Save the Old,” an effort to preserve Lodi’s historical vineyards for generations to come.
At https://www.savetheold.com, folks can discover what makes Lodi’s old vines special, why Lodi’s soils and climate promote vine longevity and links to a variety of Lodi old-vine wines, including a specially curated six-pack available for purchase in limited quantity. On Nov. 10, the Lodi Wines Facebook Live Virtual Tasting & Discussion will feature a panel of old-vine proponents: Kevin Phillips of Phillips Farms and Michael David Winery, Tegan Passalacqua of Turley Wine Cellars and Sandlands Wines, and Jeff Perlegos, Lodi grower and co-owner of the Stampede Vineyard, an Historic Vineyard Society site in Clements. For more information, visit https://www.facebook.com/LodiWine.
More:Stampede Vineyard is a gem in the Lodi American Viticultural Area
Preserving Lodi’s heritage plantings has been an issue for some time.
“We’ve been discussing this internally for quite some time and the challenges these older vineyards face in light of decreasing yields and increasing farming costs. We feel they are symbolic and truly unique to Lodi,” said Stuart Spencer, executive director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission. “They are worth trying to preserve.”
Spencer said connecting these treasured vines with vintners who appreciate their value is important. Passalacqua is one of many such vintners. The winemaker for Turley Wine Cellars, which sources from some 50 vineyards in the state, including many old vineyard sites, and owner and winemaker of Sandlands Wines based in Acampo, admires the history, quality and potential of Lodi’s venerable vines so much, he sources from five different old growths in Lodi and owns and farms the Kirschenmann Vineyard planted in 1915 in the silica-rich sandy soils on the east side of the Mokelumne River micro-AVA. Kirschenmann and several more prime old-vine vineyard sites are in an area dubbed the “Victor Triangle,” where the river’s cool waters and San Joaquin Delta breezes protect the head-trained, dry-farmed vines from the heat.
This year, From the Vine has followed the growing season in the Lizzy James Vineyard, planted in 1904 on the east side of Lodi and farmed by Kyle Lerner of Mettler & Son for his family’s winery, Harney Lane. Lerner and his late father-in-law George Mettler rescued the vineyard in the early 2000s and built Harney Lane Winery because of the remarkable Lizzy James Old Vine Zinfandel produced from the unique and truly irreplaceable vines. Lizzy James is registered by the Historic Vineyard Society, as is the Rous Vineyard, also in the "Victor Triangle."
More:Lizzy James Vineyard Series Part IV: harvest time brings reflection to a strange year
More:From The Vine: Craig Rous’ historic Zinfandel vineyards have stood the test of time
In 1990, Craig Rous restored and has continued farming the vineyard that bears his last name, planted to zinfandel in 1909 on St. George rootstock in fine, powdery, sandy soil. Zinfandel from Rous Vineyard has a floral, crushed violet character, approachable structure and elegance. The fruit goes to Ironstone Vineyards, Milliaire Winery, Macchia Wines and McCay Cellars.
Lodi is home to what is believed the world’s oldest planting of the red variety cinsault, the organically grown Bechthold Vineyard, a 25-acre parcel on Lodi’s west side planted in 1886 by Joseph Spenker and farmed by Phillips Farms. Jessie’s Grove Winery, led by winemaker Greg Burns, a fifth-generation Spenker descendent; as well as Turley Wine Cellars; Michael David Winery; McCay Cellars; Fields Family Wines; Estate Crush; Onesta Wines and the Scholium Project source from Bechthold and create red, blush and even white wines with qualities ranging from generous and rich to lovely and floral. Nearby, the five-acre Royal Tee Vineyard, the fifth-oldest in California, planted by Spenker in 1889, goes into Jessie’s Grove’s Ancient Vine Lodi Carignane and Royal Tee Zinfandel, and not far on Turner Road stands the Bishofberger Vineyard planted in 1936 to carignane (also spelled carignan). Bechthold and Royal Tee are registered by the Historic Vineyard Society.
There are many more old-vine vineyards among Lodi’s 100,000 acres of wine grapes. They are a living piece of Lodi’s history that generations of farming families have kept going. There is an obligation that some feel towards telling the stories of the old vineyards, so they don’t go away.
“They have the potential to make incredibly delicious wines,” Spencer said. “It’s often a matter of connecting the grower with the winemaker that is willing to work in partnership to bring that to life.”
Many Lodi wineries offer old-vine zinfandel and more varieties from old plantings. To find them, visit your favorite winery's web site or browse the selection of wines from throughout the Lodi appellation at the Lodi Wine & Visitor Center at 2545 W. Turner Rd. Information: https://www.lodiwine.com.
Photographs courtesy of Randy Caporoso Photography, unless noted.
Contact reporter and wine columnist Bob Highfill at (209) 546-8277 or jhighfill@recordnet.com. Follow him on Twitter @bobhighfill. Join the From the Vine group page at https://www.facebook.com/groups/FTV209.