At Portland’s new ‘Drag-Thru’ takeout line, performers bring joy during latest dining shutdown

One thing Jon Poteet couldn’t help noticing, even before Gov. Kate Brown’s latest ban on on-site dining, was how long the drive-thru lines always were outside businesses on his drive home from work. Those customers, however, were lined up for fast food. As the owner of Shine’s Distillery & Grill, Poteet knew he couldn’t compete with that.

“We’re not a fast food facility,” Poteet said.

But the brisk business gave him pause. And the governor’s most recent “freeze” on both indoor and outdoor dining forced a quick pivot.

“If they’re going to come by,” Poteet said, “we’d better entertain them while they’re here.”

“What better than a show?”

Enter the “Drag Thru,” a makeshift takeout line slash drag performance scene Poteet dreamed up in the days between the Governor’s announcement last Friday and this Wednesday, when the order went into effect. Eater PDX first spotted the news.

“It’s a nice way to help people forget about the storm of insanity we’re all dealing with right now,” Poteet said. “And if I can reach out and help support some of my fellow members of the LGBTQ community, why not?”

“The performing arts have been hit as hard if not harder” than restaurants, Poteet said.

Wednesday afternoon brought pounding rain to Williams Avenue in North Portland, where Shine’s is located. Briefly, a double rainbow appeared.

Then, as if in a nod to what was about to launch on the otherwise gray corner of North Williams and Skidmore streets, a single, more vivid rainbow took its place.

Drag performer Bolivia Carmichaels cued the music and began lip syncing Abba’s “Dancing Queen” as she snaked, cabaret style, among the small cars already in line for takeout. Nearby, a neighbor set off a mass of bubbles that floated through the intersection, adding unexpected sparkle where, given what was underway, none was needed.

Jen Tate and Greg Wright of Northeast Portland were first in line at Wednesday’s opening.

“We’re regular drag show fanatics,” Tate said. “The essence of drag is a lot of joy. And finding creative ways to share that is the pinnacle of what drag is all about.”

Shine's Distillery & Grill offers "Drag Thru" takeout and drag show

Drag performer Bolivia Carmichaels works the takeout line at Shine's Distillery & Grill on North Williams Street in Portland. November 18, 2020Beth Nakamura/The Oregonian

“It happens in the drag community already. This is what they do,” Tate said. “And this is what we benefit from.”

Poteet opened the combination distillery restaurant in summer 2019, about eight months before the pandemic hit. Drive-thru customers can purchase bottled spirits, cocktails and even hand sanitizer, all made on-site, along with food.

-- Beth Nakamura

Twitter: @bethnakamura

Instagram: @bethnakamura

Shine’s Distillery & Grill is located at 4232 N Williams Ave in Portland. Hours are 3-9 p.m. daily except Monday.

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