There's an old joke about how Jewish holidays are all the same: "They tried to kill us. We survived. Let's eat." And for Purim, which begins this Saturday night, what Jews are eating is hamantaschen, a three-cornered Eastern European cookie named for the tricorn-hat-wearing Haman, the "tried to kill us" bad guy in the Purim story. (Here's the story.) Hamantaschen are traditionally filled with jams, ground poppyseeds, and other sugary goodies, and set in a rich, sweet dough. But why, we asked ourselves, should dessert be the holiday's only triangular treat?
This Purim, we looked across the globe for savory turnover inspiration, and dressed them in their three-sided best for the occasion. Yes, hamantaschen are delicious. But before you reach for the cookie tray, you can eat your fill of borekataschen, samosataschen, piroshkitaschen, and several other tasty ideas. Take that, Haman!
Makes about 30
Turnovers--be they wrapped in phyllo, puff pastry, or a simple olive oil dough--are common throughout the mezze-loving Mediterranean. Here they're filled with a rich-yet-tangy lamb stuffing, seasoned with bright fresh herbs and sweet-sour pomegranate molasses.
INGREDIENTS
Dough
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup water
1/3 cup oil
Filling
1/2 pound ground lamb
1 1/2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses (found in Middle Eastern markets)
1 large handful each mint and parsley, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/4 small red onion, minced fine
1 egg, beaten with a splash of water to form an egg wash
PREPARATION
Dough
Mix all of the ingredients together in a large bowl, kneading until it forms a smooth, soft dough. Cover and let relax for at least half an hour.
Filling
Mix all of the ingredients together in a small bowl with a spoon or your hands, until the seasonings have been worked into the lamb.
Assembly
Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F, and lightly dust a clean countertop with flour. Line rimmed cookie sheets with parchment.
Roll out the dough until it's quite thin, less than 1/4-inch (you're aiming for something thinner than pie crust). Cut out 3-inch circles, and place a tablespoon of filling in each circle. Gather the scraps of dough, knead back together, and cover and let sit.
Brush the edges of the filled 'taschen with the egg wash, then fold the edges over to create a hamantaschen shape, leaving just a bit of filling peeping through the center. Overlap the edges, then press to seal. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Transfer the shaped 'taschen to the prepared cookie sheet. Brush the dough with the remaining egg wash, and bake until the filling is cooked and the dough is lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Serve warm.
Makes about 30
These Russian pastries are filled with the best of Soviet zakuski--lots of dairy, savory smoked fish, and briny roe. Feel free to gild the lily and add a thin sliver of lemon and a few fronds of fresh dill.
INGREDIENTS
Dough
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1/4 cup milk, warmed to room temperature
1 1/2 cups bread flour
3/4 cup rye flour
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1 stick butter, cut into pats
2 eggs
1/2 cup sour cream
Filling
8 ounces cream cheese
1 egg
6 ounces hot-smoked salmon, flaked
1/4 red onion, minced
zest from one lemon
salt and pepper to taste
1 egg, beaten with a splash of water to form an egg wash
salmon caviar, 1 lemon, cut into bits, and fresh dill fronds, for serving
PREPARATION
Dough
Sprinkle the yeast into the milk, and let sit for a few minutes to soften and bloom. In a large bowl, mix together the flours and salt. Add the butter, and using either a pastry cutter or your hands, break into small bits.
Stir the eggs and sour cream into the yeast mixture, whisking to combine. Pour this into the flours and butter, mixing to form a somewhat smooth, sticky dough. Cover the bowl, and let rise for an hour or two, until risen and puffy (you can do this in the refrigerator overnight, if preferred).
Filling
Mix together the cream cheese and egg until smooth. Add the remaining ingredients, and stir to combine.
Assembly
Line two baking sheets with parchment, and lightly dust a clean work space with flour. Turn out the dough and roll to the thickness of pie crust, dusting with additional flour as needed. Cut out 3-inch circles, and place a tablespoon of filling in each circle. Gather the scraps of dough, knead back together, and cover and let sit.
Brush the edges of the filled 'taschen with the egg wash, then fold the edges over to create a hamantaschen shape, leaving just a bit of filling peeking through the center. Overlap the edges, then press to seal. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Transfer the shaped 'taschen to the prepared cookie sheet, and let sit for about 20 minutes as the oven preheats to 375 degrees F, during which time they will rise slightly.
When the piroshkitaschen have puffed and the dough is preheated, brush the piroshkitaschen with the remaining egg wash, and bake until the filling is cooked and the dough is lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Serve warm, topped with caviar, lemon, and dill if desired.
Makes about 30
Throughout Latin America you find many types of antojitos, little appetizers that pair a masa base with a delicious topping (usually something involving beans and cheese). Usually the masa is toasted in a skillet or deep-fried, but oven-baking allows you to prepare all of you masataschen at once, then fill them with a smoky-bitter-sweet squash topping.
INGREDIENTS
Filling
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 chipotle chili in adobo, minced, along with a scoop of the adobo sauce (use two if you want a bit more heat)
1/2 cup tomato puree
1/2 cup beer
2 cups butternut squash, peeled and cubed into a small dice
salt and sugar to taste
Dough
2 cups masa harina flour
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup softened butter or shortening
1 cup warm water
Toasted pumpkin seeds, thinned sour cream or crumbled feta or cotija cheese, and cilantro leaves for serving
PREPARATION
Filling
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the onion and a sprinkling of salt, and saute until the onion is quite softened but hasn't colored, about 7 minutes, adjusting the heat down as needed. Add the garlic and chili powder, cook for a minute or two more to soften, then add the chipotle, tomato puree, beer and squash. Mix and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat until it just maintains a simmer. Cook until the squash is totally softened, about 20-25 minutes. Set aside (this can be prepared the night before if desired).
Assembly
In a large bowl or stand mixer, mix together the masa, salt and baking powder. Add the butter or shortening and mix to combine, then add the water. Knead to form a smooth dough, then cover and let sit for 20 minutes while you preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.
Line two baking trays with parchment. Scoop out 1 1/2 tablespoon lumps of masa dough, and shape into thick-walled triangles. Bake until they are just set but still moist inside, about 10 minutes (they'll continue to firm up a bit after they come from the oven). While the shells are baking, warm up the squash mixture.
Let the masataschen cool just slightly, then top each one with a scoop of the warm squash mixture, and a sprinkle of the pumpkin seeds, sour cream or cheese, and cilantro as desired.
Makes about 30
These turnovers take their inspiration from the beloved deep-fried, pea-and-potato-stuffed Indian standard. Though they are baked instead of fried, they get ample richness from cottage cheese and chickpea flour (and, if you're feeling it, coconut oil), and are then filled with cauliflower and paneer in a creamy, cardamom-scented tomato sauce.
INGREDIENTS
Dough
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup chickpea flour
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
6 tablespoons coconut oil, melted (you can substitute butter)
1 cup cottage cheese
Filling
2 tablespoons butter or coconut oil
1/2 small yellow onion, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon paprika
1 large pinch cayenne
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
3/4 cup tomato puree
1 tablespoon dried fenugreek leaves (optional, available at Indian markets)
1/4 cup heavy cream
Honey or sugar
Salt and pepper
2 cups small cauliflower florets (about half a large head)
3/4 cup crumbled paneer cheese
Cilantro or mint chutney and yogurt for serving
PREPARATION
Dough
In a large bowl, mix together the flours, cumin seeds, salt and baking powder. Add the melted coconut oil and cottage cheese, and knead until the mixture comes together to form a smooth dough. Cover and set aside to rest for at least half an hour while you prepare the filling.
Filling
Melt the butter or coconut oil in large skillet over a medium-high heat. Add the onion, and saute until softened but not colored, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, cook for a moment, then add the paprika, cayenne, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, and saute for a minute or two to soften the garlic and ginger and toast the spices. Add the tomato puree and fenugreek leaves, bring to a simmer, and cook for a few minutes until most of the liquid reduces to form a thick, chunky sauce that coats the onions. Add the cream, simmer another minute to reduce slightly, then add honey and salt and pepper, and adjust seasonings to taste (this will be mixed with other ingredients, so you want a strongly-flavored mixture). Add the cauliflower, stir, and then cover, cooking until it is crisp-tender, about 3 minutes (stirring occasionally). Remove from heat, and stir in the paneer.
Assembly
Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F, and lightly dust a clean countertop with flour. Line two cookie sheets with parchment.
Roll out the dough until it's quite thin, less than 1/4-inch (you're aiming for something thinner than pie crust). Cut out 3-inch circles, and place a tablespoon of filling in each circle. Gather the scraps of dough, knead back together, and cover and let sit.
Brush the edges of the filled 'taschen with water, then fold the edges over to create a hamantaschen shape, leaving just a bit of filling peeping through the center. Overlap the edges, then press to seal. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Transfer the shaped 'taschen to the prepared cookie sheet, and bake until the filling is bubbling and the dough is lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Serve warm, with your favorite chutneys if desired.
Makes about 2 dozen
Unlike their leaner Latin American cousins of the same name, this Spanish-inspired turnover is wrapped in a rich, buttery dough, its orangey sweetness playing off the smoky-briny fish. In order to coax a flaky, puff-pastry-like dough into triangles, these must be frozen prior to baking to allow them to keep their corners.
INGREDIENTS
Dough
2 1/2 cups flour
1 large pinch salt
Zest of 1 orange
1/2 pound cold unsalted butter, cut into pats
1/3 cup orange juice (you can squeeze this from the orange you zested)
Filling
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 yellow onion, sliced into thin half-moons
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons pimenton (smoked spanish paprika), sweet or hot
1/2 cup tomato puree
Leaves from two sprigs of thyme
2 5-ounce cans oil-packed tuna, drained
1/4 cup drained capers
1 splash sherry vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
1 egg beaten with a splash of water, to form an egg wash
harissa or other chili paste for serving, if desired
PREPARATION
Dough
Toss together the flour, salt and orange zest in a large bowl. Add the butter, toss to coat with flour, and press down with the heel of your hand to flatten it into flour-coated flakes. Stir from the bottom to distribute, and repeat the pressing and stirring process until all of the flour is incorporated into flakes or bits. Add the orange juice, and work the dough until it just comes together (you'll work it more later, so no need to go nuts--smears of butter are fine). You may not need all of the orange juice, or you may need more, depending upon your dough. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 20-30 minutes.
Filling
Heat the oil in a large skillet over a medium-high heat. Saute the onions until they soften but do not color, about 7 minutes, then add the garlic and saute another 2 minutes. Add the pimenton, stir to toast, then add the tomato puree and thyme leaves, simmering until the tomato reduces to a thick sauce that coats the onions. Turn off the heat, and add the remaining ingredients, and taste to adjust seasonings. Let cool.
While the filling is cooling, take out the dough out of the fridge, and unwrap on a lightly-floured countertop. Roll out to a rectangular shape, then fold like an envelope and rotate 90 degrees. Repeat twice more, then re-wrap and return to the fridge for another chill, about 30 minutes.
Assembly
Lightly dust a clean countertop with flour. Line a few plates with plastic or parchment. Take the dough out of the refrigerator, and allow to come to room temperature (you'll need the dough to be soft in order for it to really seal, and you'll re-freezer prior to baking, so feel free to let things warm up).
When the dough has softened, turn it out onto your floured countertop and roll until it's quite thin, slightly less than 1/4-inch (you're aiming for something just slightly thinner than pie crust). Cut out 3-inch circles, and place about 2 teaspoons of filling in each circle. Gather the scraps of dough, knead back together, and cover and let sit.
Brush the edges of the filled 'taschen with the egg wash, then fold the edges over to create a hamantaschen shape, leaving just a bit of filling peeping through the center. Overlap the edges, then press to seal. The flaky dough will puff in the oven, so make sure they are well-sealed. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Transfer the 'taschen to your prepared plates, and freeze until solid (at least 45 minutes, though longer or even overnight is fine too). Set the egg wash aside.
When you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Transfer the frozen 'taschen to parchment-lined cookie sheets, and brush with the reserved egg wash. Bake until the filling is cooked and the dough is lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Serve warm, with harissa if desired.
Note: These recipes have not been tested by the Bon Appetit Test Kitchen.
Deena Prichep is a freelance print and radio journalist based in Portland, Oregon. Her stories on topics ranging from urban agriculture to gefilte fish have appeared on National Public Radio, The Splendid Table, Marketplace, Vegetarian Times, and more.
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